Monday, April 20, 2020

What Can You Image with a Celestron NexStar 4SE?



Here's my Celestron NexStar 4SE telescope
it's the "Tiny Scope That Could" !
I have it on a Celestron AVX mount
with a Canon T3i unmodded camera
and a ZWO guide camera

Most people assume you have to have a BIG telescope to image some deep space objects
like galaxies and nebula. And, yes, I have bigger scopes to astro-image with.
But I just wanted to see what this little scope could do.
The truth is that if you have a good mount that tracks well
this telescope (OTA) can give more than acceptable results.  Here's the proof...

Messier 81 (M 81) Bode's Galaxy
Full image - not cropped

 Messier 81 (M 81) Bode's Galaxy
cropped

Messier 82 (M 82) The Cigar Galaxy
Full image - not cropped

Messier 82 (M 82) The Cigar Galaxy
cropped

Messier 97 (M 97) - The Owl Nebula
Full image - not cropped

Messier 97 (M 97) - The Owl Nebula
cropped 

Messier 3  (M 3) globular star cluster
Full image - not cropped

Messier 3  (M 3) globular star cluster
cropped

Messier 51  (M 51) Whirlpool Galaxy
Full image - not cropped
(I think I can do this even better in the future!)

If you want to know more, post a question in the moderated comment section below:

Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Galaxy M 101 with Celestron C6se telescope


 M 101 Galaxy

DATA:
Galaxy M 101 from last night, April 13, 2020
Scope: Celestron C6se with F/6.5 focal reducer
Mount: Celestron AVX
Camera: Canon T3i unmodded
Seeing: Good but a bit hazy
ISO: 3200
Sub exposure time: 240 sec
Number of subs: 11
Total stacked time: 44 minutes
10 darks, 10 flats
Stacked with Sequator
Post-processed in Luminar 2018
Cropped 50%

I also want to show you what my "subs" look like and my "flats" and the initial stacked image are for this image of galaxy M 101 (see individual pics) 

This is an individual shot (sub) RAW from the camera unprocessed:

This is the result of stacking with Sequator software of 11 subs:

And this is the result after post-processing with Luminar 2018:

There is one more step in the stacking and that is "flats".
With flats one is able to correct for vignetting
from the optics of the telescope and the focal reducer.
This averages out the light across the final image.

Tuesday, April 7, 2020

Full Moon with Explore Scientific AR127


Scope: Explore Scientific AR127 refractor
Camera: Canon T3i unmodded
10 subs - 1/800 sec each at 100 iso
Stacked with Lynkeos
Cropped to Moon
Post-processed with Preview in Mac OS

Here is the full fame, single shot for comparison (before cropping)

Sunday, April 5, 2020

DIY Repurpose Your Finder Scope into a Guide Scope Conversion

The final modified "finder scope now a guide scope"

Original Finder scope  50mm

How to DIY Finder Scope to Guide Scope Conversion for an Explore Scientific 50mm Guidescope

I wanted to make a guide scope out of the standard (and basically useless) Explore Scientific 50mm white guide scope that comes with most of their telescope (at least the 127mm model I got).
Useless because the crosshairs are invisible unless you are pointing it at the Moon or something equally bright.

But if you are doing astrophotography you need a guide scope not a finder scope.
Sure you can buy one but wouldn't it be great if you could re-purpose the standard guide scope?

Please read ALL the instructions below BEFORE attempting this easy conversion!

* Unscrew the eyepiece end of the finderscope



The interior diameter of the white tube is just a couple of mm wider than a standard 2" to 1.25" eyepiece adapter.




NOTE: The eyepiece adapter MUST have a very low "stop" when you put it into the white tube. The best one I found in my astro scrap pile (yes, never throw anything away, you never know when you will need it!) has only about a 2 mm "stop" that keep the adapter from going all the way into the white tube.


My junk box adapter has the eyepiece screw below the "stop". Most do not, however.
Most 2" to 1.25" eyepiece adapters have a THICK "stop" and that complicates matters because you will have to CUT the white tube down by the thickness your "stop" is in order to have any chance at reaching focus on your guide camera. So if your adapter is 10mm thick then you will have to chop off 10mm with a metal saw, keeping it as true to "level" as possible. Of course you may have to insert some kind of wooden dowel that is 2" in diameter into the white tube to keep it from warping in the process of cutting. I suggest that you test it first by taping it all together and testing it with your guide camera before cutting.

In my case I had to drill a hole (or may be two if your eyepiece adapter requires it) at the proper distance from the end of the white tube, a hole big enough for the screw(s) to hole an eyepiece or a guide camera in place.
However if your adapter is a thick one, the holding screw will not be necessary.






You will find that with just three layers of black electricians tape around the eyepiece adapter will make it fit snugly in. If after testing you decide you are "never going back to a finder scope" you might want to epoxy it in place permanently. Your choice...





Temporarily, especially for testing, I only held the whole eyepiece assembly in place with electrician's tape.


Now for the focusing test. I inserted an Astromania SGCMOS Series Telescope CMOS Camera (a ZWO ASI120MM Mini Monochrome Astronomy Camera will do just fine, too. Google this model.)



Hooking the camera up to my computer I had to vary the amount that I inserted the camera barrel into the eyepiece adapter so I could reach basic focus. Then I made the final sharp focus by twisting the objective lens at the other end of the finder scope then locking it in place with the smaller black ring.

Because I didn't have to cut the white tube (just drill a small hole) I was able to keep the original threads inside white tube and screw in the original eyepiece end. But I will likely never need to.

And just like that, you have repurposed your finder scope into a guide scope!

Saturday, April 4, 2020

Shooting the Moon

 Copernicus (cropped)
 Copernicus region


 Plato (cropped)
 Plato region


 Tycho and Clavius (cropped)
Tycho and Clavius region

Scope: Meade LX200GPS 8"
Camera: PointGrey Grasshopper 5 megapixel gray-scale camera
Processed in AutoStakkert
Best 15% frames
Air fairly unstable